Stuff & junk

I have a weird quirk where I want to start everything off with "so." Every post, every sentence, every story. Not sure the cause or the tic but there it is for all of the tens of you who read this. If you see me doing the so thing, shut me down.

Life has been fairly interesting of late. Lots of peaks and valleys. I am reading a great book about aussie surf kid life, "Breath." My buddy Justin leant it to me and I am quite enjoying the discussion of surfing and the little things that it represents for the character. He speaks of the time without surf and the way the mind seeks out other ways to fulfill the rush that one receives when you are able to ride a particularly horrifying slab. We had some through the other week and I gotta say there is nothing that compares to the the thrill of the jet engine roaring right on your tail as you try to carve out some turns and stay right in the spot. Also, nothing quite like the disappointment when your small animal brain prevents you from taking off at the peak of what could have been the best wave of the day simply because you are afraid of a little reef rock at the bottom of the wall that would most certainly have pummeled you. Or the realization that the pummeling is actually okay and you didn't drown and you have another chance to do it all over. The video of the rats hitting the lever replays over and over.

The thing is, I have had nothing else that strips out all the cross talk in my brain so effectively, so completely. Running gave me hints but it was more escaping into a zone where I could turn off. Surfing is more than that, the fear and elation combine to create something wholly different- a new (to me) space where it is only the now. Holy Castenada, that sounds lame on the reread but it is what it is. So times up...