Surf competitions are a little arbitrary to my mind- the sets come when they want so it is really dependent on luck. One thing I have always thought about surfing is that the better you are, the more you can make of any type of surf. The best surfers I have seen can ride the crappiest waves and still make it look like art. So in that sense I can see that a surf competition becomes less of what the waves are doing and more about what your skills can make of the conditions. I saw some stuff today that made me want to get out and practice my cross stepping- the kook shuffle isn't going to cut it for much longer!
Talula's birthday was this last week, we had some great times with her. I am still in love with the iphone vintage camera thingie so forgive me.
Also... The new board!!! It looks so amazing, I can not wait to get it out in the water. The white tint with sparkle is really cool. The shape is a more performance oriented longboard, 50/50 rails, squarish tail and single fin. Marco and Aimee really killed it on this one. I have to wait for 12 more days to take it out because the epoxy needs to set. Grrr.
This last week was an expensive one in regards to surfing. I dinged Gabbi's board on Thursday, trying to make a section and was stepping close to the rail and the board slipped and flipped and caught me right in the knee. When I got it into the shore there was still some blood on it- so tough. So off to Rogelio's for fixing (side note- Rogelio was the announcer for the contest and one of the finalists- he would run out to compete and then right back up on the stand. He was doing an amazing job.)
Friday after school Dave, Steve and I went out to our spot and there was nobody in the water- Steve left his rashy in the truck so on Saturday at the water park I borrowed it and it disappeared...
The moral of the story is "don't lend Nick anything" or "if you want repairs on your board or a new rashy, lend it to Nick."
My new clients are in town this next week, Tom and Fran. They own the house where we lived for the first 2 or so months while our house was being completed. It is great to meet them- I have stayed at their house on 3 different trips the past 4 years!
