ahhh surfing

I have not been able to get out in the water for the past few days- it was super windblown and I had stuff that needed doing. I was getting real antsy but out of the blue I was talking to a buddy and he was ready to go! It was pretty damn big but glassy. Right as we got in the water two boatloads full of older long board turistas piled out but it was okay. I sucked today but still got on some honking huge ones and also spent some time in the wash-rinse-repeat cycle inside. My whole attitude was changed for the better, I'm sure my wife would agree. Made it over to a couple of friend's house who are visiting the pueblo and ate some yummy dinner. What a great day it ended up to be!!!